After a very average overnight bus I had a full day to explore the town of Cuenca. I was back up in altitude and feeling it a bit but managed to walk through the markets, in and out of hat museum and all around the Pumapungo ruins.
After a full day of roaming around I realised I had seen most of what Cuenca had to offer so decided to make a move the next day and head to Guayaquil and then another bus to Montana on the coast.
I had decided to splurge and stayed at an incredible hostel called Casa Del Sol in Montaniti and my golly it was lovely. I had a two-story room to myself and dropped my bags to head out for a walk along the beach. Happy to be by the ocean.
There was a lot happening in the town of Montana with restaurants and stalls everywhere – walked back to hostel and there was a great bunch of people to chill with.
Early morning run along the beach and also managed a beach workout whilst watching the surfers and also whales breaching out the back of the surf – pretty cool morning.
Yin yoga at the hostel which was incredible then it was a bus to Santa Elena and then another overnight bus to Banos.
I had a delish brekky at a place called Honey and then met up with a Scottish guy I had met in Iquitos in Peru, Shearer, and we walked around the town after dropping bags at the Epicuron Hostel.
We had planned to go paragliding but due to weather it was cancelled so we met up with a couple Aussie guys, Luke and Glen, and decided to hire a jeep and drive along the Ruta de Cascadas checking out all the waterfalls.
We even managed to go zip lining across to the falls. A couple of hikes to get to some of the falls as well and the most impressive being the Cascadas del Diablo which we had to walk through some tunnels to get to through to the falls.
We all met up again for dinner that evening and then a few games of pool at the Leprechaun Bar where I had my first beer in a number of months. We then continued onto the Leprechaun Bar for a couple more drinks before we made our way back to our hostels.
The next day we all jumped in a taxi to Del Arbol for a treehouse swing at ‘the end of the world’- Shearer vommed – was pretty entertaining. We moved on to the hot springs where we were quite fashionable with our swim caps.
One of the days I decided to go on a trip to the jungle whilst the boys stayed back and watching the football games. I went with a group and we got to jump in canoes which was pretty intense down the Amazon. Was good fun though.
We then hiked up to an amazing view over the jungle and each had a turn on the death swing – wow that was an adrenalin rush!! Such incredible views also.
We had lunch whilst watching the second half of a football game – the World Cup had the entire country fixated.
Hiked to Cascadas Hold Vida which was a pretty waterfall and then onto Cotochoca village where we had some locals show their way of life. It was a bit touristy as you could tell they were putting things on for pictures. Meanwhile, I was kicking the ball around with the kids.
My sober streak was well and truly over with these boys – we sat in numerous bars watching the football games and drinking. Was great fun.
After a few chilled days with the boys, Shearer and myself planned a hiking trip so we said our goodbyes and caught a separate bus from Luke and Glen and headed to Latacunga and then jumped in a taxi to Hostal Tiana to drop our bags and then, surprise surprise, another bus to where we were starting our hike from, Quilotoa.
My golly it was cold but absolutely stunning in Quilotoa along the edge of the crater. We even had an open fire in our room – it was so so cosy. We explored the tiny village whilst the sun was up and then it got really cold so it was back to the hostal for a yummy dinner and then to our nice toasty room.
It was an early morning start with brekky and we rugged up in all our warm clothes and set off by 830am. The first hour was walking around the crater at about 3000-3800m above sea level. It was cold and windy but absolutely stunning.
We almost got lost but took a turn downhill and it was the right decision, after the downhill it was of course another uphill which exhausted me – this hiking in altitude was tough going.
We ended up making it to Chugchilian within three hours – a great time. No wonder I was exhausted. It was another cool hostel and once again we made it in time for the next football game whilst we ate lunch – Shearer’s request to make sure we made it in time for the games.
A short stroll around the town and a few pool games in the hostel and soon enough it was dinner time. We chatted to everyone else who had arrived from the hike and stuffed our faces with yummy food and snacks.
The second day of the hike started pretty simple but then boom, it was straight uphill literally using our hands to pull us up – it was so steep! The views were stunning once we made it up and again it took us just over three hours to make it to the next town of Inslivi.
Now this was an incredible hostal called Llullu Llama. Again open fires for warmth and super cosy. There was also a huge St Bernard dog, Baloo, who was super friendly but Shearer had allergies to it so then we had to go for another walk to find the medical centre for some antihistamine. Never a dull moment.
Back to the hostal for the next world cup game (we were now onto the finals) and we had some delish food and a yummy hot chocolate whilst watching. Biggest food coma.
The hostal even had a spa and steam room which felt amazing after the last couple days of hiking. We sat chatting to a few people before a few chess games and then food time again for a delish dinner.
Another early morning for a final day of hiking and we missed a couple turn offs but soon on the right track. After crossing the river it was another steep climb for the town of Sigchos. We only took two and a half hours and made it just in time to see the bus pull out of the station for Latacunga but luckily the driver saw us and stopped so we could jump on. Picked up our bags from Hostel Tirana and a taxi trip to the bus station where we were again lucky that the bus to Quito pulled up right next to us. Ideal!
Back in a city, we were at a hostel with great views from the rooftop and soon freshened up and headed out for a yummy dinner. Pizza, pasta and two bottles of red wine – we definitely deserved it. My golly we both could talk shit for a long time.
Shearer had to fly back to Australia and I spent the next couple of days wandering around Quito on the free walking tour and heading out with a bunch of people to Mitad Del Mundo – the equator.
It was then finally time to head to the Galapagos to meet up with some friends from home – I could not wait! Myself and a guy from the hostel were both heading so we sat at the airport watching the second half of the World Cup final between Croatia and France – what a game!
Our flight was to Santa Crus but first landing Baltra Island then a bus to the ferry, ferry to the main island and then another bus on the other side. Geez it was a mission. But I arrived!
Chatted to a guy at the hostel who knew some other people I had met on my travels a month or so ago – small world!!
I finally arranged to go out and meet up with Cat and Nat – was so good to see them and we booked in a dive for Gordon’s Rock. Booking done, we headed out for some drinks.
We wandered around the small town and to the main dock which was full of wildlife. The pier had baby black tip sharks swimming around, pelicans on the hunt for food, seals chilling on the pier and on the seats and rays and other animals around – it was incredible.
We walked to the fish street market which was a happening place, the little stalls and restaurants came alive on the streets and we wangled for a good deal of a seafood dinner and a couple beers – was delish!
Early the next day, we found an incredible coffee joint, 1835, followed by a short water taxi ride across the water to walk to Las Griatas (the Grottos). It was a pretty walk amongst a forest of cacti along with salt lakes.
The grotto was pretty packed but we grabbed our snorkels and jumped in – it was freezing!! We swum around a while then dried off and wandered around to the top for some cool viewpoints.
Back in town we grabbed some snacks and walked to Tortuga Bay via a long but pretty walk.
The sand was super white and we walked along to the point where we thought were a whole heap of black rocks but they were actually the iguanas chilling. We watched them a while and it was weird, they would spit salt water from their mouths every now and then.
Tortuga Bay itself was also stunning and we sat watching the crabs and iguanas along the rocks before heading back into town for some beers.
That evening we again went back to the food market on the streets for some yummy seafood and more beers before a wander through to watching the animals off the pier. It was like a wildlife show with so many wild animals around just chilling. The seals my fav.
We went with Albatros dive shop to the other side of the island where we had a short 10 minute dive to prepare us then we were literally dropped in the water at Gordon’s Rock where we had to go straight under and grab onto the rocks – the current was ripping.
Just casually swimming checking out some turtles then heard the sound banging of someone seeing something – the hammerheads!!!! There were tons of them all just chilling by a sandy patch around 30m down and they were HUGE!! Absolutely incredible. We didn’t have the best visibility but you could definitely tell what type of sharks they were. Amazing.
Back on the boat we went to a protected area where we chilled for an hour. Cat and I sat at the front of the boat wildlife spotting – blue footed boobies, pelicans, seas, fish jumping out and a few turtles popping up – magical.
We went back to the same area for the second dive and again more sharks, hammerheads, black and white tip and more turtles. Amazing.
Back in town I needed a hot shower to warm up and we went back to our fav coffee place, 1835, and then it was time for a beer and some card games at the brewery. Our day topped off by the fish markets once again for another incredible seafood meal.
The next day we jumped on a bus to Santa Rosa and hired bikes to ride into El Chato – was a fair ride but we managed to see a few of the gigantic tortoises along the way – they were massive!
Once there we put boots on and trudged on through to the tunnels coming out at the end to more huge tortoises – the biggest I have ever seen!
Back in town we walked through to the Charles Darwin Research Centre for more of the ginormous tortoises and some interesting facts – saw the skeleton of Lonesome George. There was a cool beach on the way back with the black iguanas everywhere!
Our last night in Santa Cruz so we had to keep up with our norm of wandering by the pier for the wildlife (sat down with a beer to watch a volleyball match) and head to the fish market for dinner – it did not disappoint. More beers, card games and shit talking. An ideal night.
I was up super early to say goodbyes and catch a ferry to Isabela Island. Wow this was a rough boat trip. I am very glad my mate gave me the hot tip of sitting at the back of the ferry boats. Did get a bit wet but it was worth it – nearly everyone got seasick! As we pulled into the harbour there were penguins and seals everywhere – literally had to walk around all the seals with all our bags.
Myself and a girl from the ferry got chatting (we ended up at the same hostel) and went to go find a tour company for the tunnels tour. The best we could find was $100 but we booked and went for some food. This island was a lot more laid back than Santa Cruz and did not feel nearly as touristy.
Met another girl and we all jumped on bikes to ride around the island. It turned into quite a ride in the blistering sun but we eventually made it to the Wall of Tears and some cool lookouts over the island. The ride back was much easier being downhill most the way and we picked up snorkel gear then walked the way to Concha Perla. This was a cool (literally freezing) lagoon with a few animals around. Again, seals everywhere.
We hung on the beach here watching the crazy seals and even had one follow me for a while. Watched a few iguanas swimming in the ocean then come out and walk straight through people’s belongings – was incredible just to watch all the wildlife.
A group dinner and then an early night – I was pooped. The sun had been intense!
We had the tunnels tour which turned out to be one of my fav things in the Galapagos – we jumped on a boat (about ten of us) and were taken to the first snorkel spot about 45mins away called Cabo Rosa. Wetsuits and mask/snorkel in hand we jumped in – my golly it was freezing!! Saw our guide catch a lobster with his hands and then we saw numerous animals – baby black tip sharks, trumpet fish, eagle rays, golden rays, massive turtles, white tip sharks, octopus and my fav, a few of the biggest seahorses I have ever seen. They were holding onto the mangroves. So so cool.
The sheer amount of animals just in this small area was insane – I guess it really does make a huge difference on how they limit tourists every day..
I had to get out of the water – I was too cold! Luckily I was handed a hot tea by the crew when I did get out. We were then taken on the boat through the mazes of tunnels and given lunch. Now this was a cool area where we got to watch all the blue footed boobies nesting.
It was such a magical area and I loved just walking around – the water being crystal clear so could see the turtles swimming around also..
Chilled on the roof of the boat as we drove through some more and saw a few turtles and penguins swimming around. What an amazing day.
I had a super early ferry at 6am back to Santa Cruz where I chilled for the morning having lunch and attempting some wifi before wandering around the town once again. Another ferry ride to San Cristobal Island in the afternoon where we all got soaked on the ferry.
I managed to score myself a huge room to myself at San Francis Hotel for only $15 and went for a walk around the town. More chilled than Santa Cruz but still more happening than Isabela. Booked myself on a Kicker Rock tour with the last of my cash and had a delish burger for dinner. Checked out another beach full of seals – could watch them for days..
I decided on the 360 Island tour with EcoFishing and it was a great trip – it was literally a trip that went the whole way around San Cristobal Island. First stop being Kicker Rock (after seeing some whales breaching nearby) for a snorkel where there were a ton of massive eagle rays and numerous turtles.. Again the water was absolutely freezing and I had to get out.
Checking out Cerro Brujo and the Witches Hill then going ashore at Bahia Sardinia where we chilled with some seals and their pups.
Stopped by Punta Pitt then onto Bahia Rosa Blanca where we had some yummy lunch. We walked to a big lagoon for snorkelling – it didn’t look like much but we soon came to realise it was a baby shark nursery – they were everywhere sleeping on the bottom of the lagoon and so cool to swim with. More turtles and rays and sharks everywhere – so so cool.
Back on the boat for the trip back to town and dinner with a few people – what an amazing day.
It was my last day in Galapagos and a few of us ended up walking to Bahia Tijeratas. We walked past Playa Mann with a ton of seals then onto a path to Darwin Bay for stunning views. We were the only ones there and there were seals everywhere – so of course we jumped in the water and swum around with the pups. My golly this was fun having the seals swim all around you being super playful. Until papa bear came over and started making some loud noises – that got us moving pretty quick!
Eventually a ton of people rocked up so we decided it was time to move on, we went to Playa Mann and took some pics of the huge seals chilling before it was a shower at the hostel, delish seafood meal and then jump in a taxi for the short ride to the nearby airport. Sad to leave Galapagos but it also meant the last of my time in Ecuador – it was time to hop on over to some more islands – this time back in the Caribbean!!
