An overnight bus from Cusco to Arequipa sounded fine, until the road froze over and we had to wait in the middle of a highway (in a huuuge line of cars) until the sun rose and melted the ice. Peru had it all…
Once in Arequipa, I met up with the free walking tour where I met some cool people and we tried some cheese icecream which was interesting. Few of us headed for a sunset drink at a rooftop bar (fruit juice for me) which had pretty views of the main Plaza followed by dinner at Hatunpa which consisted of different types of potatoes with yummy toppings – very cool place..
Arequipa was a cool lil town and I enjoyed wandering around the markets, checking out the ice mummy, Juanita, at the Santuarios Andinos Museum and the Santa Catalina Monastery (which was a huge maze).
After chatting to a few people, we arranged to hike the Colca Canyon together. It was an early morning start and we drove through a beautiful sunrise with the mountains covered in the white snow. Small breakfast and we continued into the Canyon where we started to see the huge Condors flying around.
We stopped at a viewpoint where the majestic birds flew right past us giving us a show. They were everywhere!! We also saw part of the steep trek we would be walking down and then up again. We were in for a treat..
It was three hours of zig zagging downhill where myself and another girl chatted most of the way then we all met up at the lunch spot for soup with alpaca and rice before we set off once again. An uphill climb took us to a little snack shop where we checked out the guinea pig farm and the stunning scenery whilst we caught our breath.
One hour left of the hike until camp and it was such a cool little village – beautiful surroundings. We showered, played some card games, ate dinner and tucked ourselves into bed early ready for another start in the dark.
We left just after 430am and set off in the pitch black. I went on a mission and did not stop (other than a couple photos) until I reached the top and the sun was up – it took me two hours. Waited for the rest of the group and we hiked together another 20 minutes to the brekky place to load up on food and warm tea/coffee before heading on to some hot springs.
Never have hot springs felt so good and well deserved and we were happy to spend a decent amount of time here before making the journey back to Arequipa. Lots of alpacas, llamas and vicunas along the way.
Back in Arequiaba I got everything ready to move on to the next spot, Nazcar and wow it was great to finally see the coast again and to be back to sea level after about two months in altitude! And I even managed to get a run and workout in – I was back in my element. Happy days.
I was picked up for my Nazcar Lines flight and jumped in a very small ten seater plane with a bunch of Frenchies. Let’s just say I was glad I did not eat before the flight. It was super cool to see all the different shapes and lines and interesting as still to this day, no one knows what they were are for.
Another short bus and then taxi into the desert oasis of Huacachina and to my desert glamping tent. I had hit the touristy route and boy did I know it. Back with the young backpackers there to just party.
I went on a dune buggy trip which consisted of a group of us being driven like crazy through the dunes and grabbing a sand board to then go down the dunes – such a weird and wonderful experience. It was pretty cold though and later that night I caught up with an Aussie couple at Huacafuckingchina for dinner – another weird place!
The next day was clearer and I climbed up the sand dunes and walked all the way around for sunset – such a pretty view of the little oasis.
Another short bus to Paracas and by the ocean again. A few of us from the bus went out for some food and drink at Miski, an alternative bar.
I went on a morning boat tour to Isla de Ballestas which was freezing but also interesting and worth going on to check out the thousands of birds, Cerro Blanco for the sea lions and the fishermen with freshly caught octopus.
Back on land I had some pretty delicious ceviche and fried fish at the local fish stalls – so so yummy.
The bus to Lima stopped off at Chinoy slave tunnels at a hacienda which was crazy to learn about the history and how they treated the slaves – terrible. Interesting stop before arriving into Lima and crashing out.
Finally in the main city of Peru and it was odd to be in such a built up city again. I met a few people and we went for a walking tour of the alternative area of Barrano.
Super interesting area and we were shown all the street art and a cool coffee shop and then onto watching how the pisco sour is made. We ended the tour by heading to a local joint for the best cerviche I have had – absolutely amazing!
Walked around the city with one of the dudes from the walking tour and we watched the magic water fountain nightly show which was pretty impressive and such an ordeal..! Ate some yum picarones covered with honey and checked out the other water features in the park.
A bunch of us from the hostel went on the city walking tour which was interesting around all the buildings and we ended up having a menu of the day at a restaurant overlooking a square. Managed to walk through a bank for a free exhibition of amazing gold jewellery and ceramics before I treated myself to a pedi.
The next day I had a super early start for my flight to the remote jungle town of Iquitos. It was such a different vibe here starting with the mototaxis to my hostel – super muggy and warm. First day of the World Cup so I watched Russia beat Saudi and then went for a wander around the town. Such a cool little town but I got drenched walking back with a massive downpour.
Made it out through the rain in a mototaxi to the Manatee Rescue Centre which was super cool and interesting to see the animals that they are rehabilitating. Saw various monkeys and a few manatees and learnt a bit about them.
Walked through town and came across Karma Café which was an awesome lil joint so I chilled there with an acai bowl before wandering around the town and along the waterfront – such stunning views whilst the sun set and it was so still.
I managed to get in a run and a workout overlooking the amazon before one of the hostel workers took me to his favourite cerviche place – it was amazing!! So yum. Marcel then gave me the directions to the Pilpintuwasi Butterfly and Animal Rescue Centre which involved a mototaxi to Bellavista Nunay, collectivo boat to Padre Cocha and a walk through the little village to the Centre.
This place was incredible and we were shown around with us walking in the cages and the rescued monkeys were out in the open. Such a great concept and the monkeys were so curious and watching us, hands out to touch us.
They even had a few sloth who were very intrigued and made their way (very slowly) over to us. So cool.
On the way back to the hostel I managed to pop into the Museum Amazonicas which was pretty interesting. They had a lot of history and examples of the tribal dress on display – so bright and colourful!
I joined a group of people from the hostel for a couple of nights deep in the Amazon. We travelled for two hours via a fast boat passing by various little villages and many boats travelling up and down as the water was their highway.
Once we arrived at the lodge we had a yum lunch and chatted getting to know each other before our first activity which was going for a cruisy trip along the waters in a small canoe spotting sloth. We managed to spot quite a lot and even a mum and her little baby holding on tight. Very cute.
Back to the lodge for dinner followed by a night walk around the area where we spotted frogs, tarantulas and other spiders trudging through the swampy area.
The boys taught us a fun card game called cambio, which we played until the power was switched off which meant an early night for us listening to the loud sounds of the jungle. Creepy but amazing.
The next day we had a sunrise boat trip out where we spotted both the pink and grey dolphins – pretty magical. I had a green frog jump on my hand too which stayed with me for the rest of the journey back.
The nest few activities consisted of a jungle hike (about 6km worth) creating our own path through the thick vegetation, piranha fishing (only caught a few small ones) and a night boat trip where we spotted a baby alligator and a baby boa constrictor.
We had a slight incident with the piranha fishing where someone accidently hit a wasp nest whilst casting their line – we were soon trying to balance and swat away wasps as we very quickly paddled out of there – we did almost all end up in the water. Scary at the time but made for a few laughs afterwards!
All of us played more card games over brekky the next day chatting about our night’s adventures before we were off on the boat for a visit to a village which had been previously flooded. Was crazy to think that the village once had 500 people and now only had 25 people. Shortly after we were back in the fast boat back to Iquitos – what an amazing few days in the jungle.
I then made my way by foot and then a fast boat for 45mins to Veredero and then another boat to Isla De Los Monos – Monkey Island.
Now this was an incredible place, I was introduced by one of the volunteers who took me around the island explaining the work which was done and introducing me to the curious monkeys which were grabbing my hand and climbing up me. I even had one, Pepito, fall asleep nestled in my hair.
I was shown the various breeds of monkey’s which had been rescued and I sat down and chatted to the volunteers as the monkeys played around us (Pepito still asleep in my lap).. Such an amazing afternoon.
The fast boat back to Iquitos and I stopped by Karma Café for a piranha dish before a nice chilled evening.
The next morning I met with Lito for a guided tour around Belen (not somewhere to walk by yourself) and I had a couple others from the hostel join us. The markets were crazy!! There were people everywhere and we made sure we stuck together. Lito got us to try some weird witchery grub which was an interesting taste..
Saw anything and everything in the markets, frog, jaguar skin, catfish, turtles, alligators – everything had been pilgrimaged from the river and sold. Glad Lito was with us to help explain.
Lito proceeded to take us through the markets and to a small port where we jumped on a boat which took us around the floating city – wowee now this was eye opening. A whole village built above the river and it was crazy to see the lifestyle of this community living on the river.
Back through to the markets and we went for some food where we ran into some people that the others knew so all went for an incredible lunch at Chef Paz – incredible ceviche, chichirron and sushi. One of the guys had then been talking up the desserts from the Hilton Hotel so we went over for a treat – such a great group of people.
Time to move on – and I did not go the easy way (of flying out). I got my things ready together for a collective to Nauta which took about 1.5hrs and then a mototaxi to Yurimaguas. Got my seat number for the overnight boat to Tarapoto – 32 out of 65. Once on the boat I settled in (extremely uncomfortable seats) and watched an episode of Billions with the Spanish subtitles on for the guy next to me who was peering over.
A rough nights sleep, very on and off as could tell pulling into some villages to let people on and off. I did manage to watch the sunrise out the side of the boat which was stunning and then I finally had my own seat.
We were served brekky of rice, beans, plantain, chicken and potatos and even a juice. If only the captain didn’t continuously play the music at full volume. A few stops where we just floated in the river and I soon found out that two of the three motors had broken down. We were meant to arrive at 2pm in the afternoon but I was still on there for sunset (which was beautiful).
Finally in the port around 730pm and a few of us jumped in a mototaxi to the bus area where I saw a couple other tourists and we jumped in a taxi to share the ride into Tarapoto – my golly I was exhausted by the time I arrived to my hostel but did feel great to shower and get into bed. What a journey.
The next morning I ended up walking to Urku Centre where they rehabilitated animals bought in by the government. I continued up the dirt road in the jungle and went for a bit of a hike through a jungle but it was getting dark so had to turn around – felt great to be out stretching the legs again.
I ventured out later in the night for some food but was happy to have my own room with some decent wifi for once!! I definitely had no such luck in the jungle (which you would not expect).
For some reason the journey to Chachapoyas ended up taking around seven hours instead of the normal four – really having to be patient on a super-hot and uncomfortable mini bus but was loving the scenery as we drove by. There wasn’t actually much to the town once I arrived but it was interesting to walk around and grab some food.
Went to Keulap for a day trip which is where I had read about some more cool ruins. Bus to Nuevo Keulap and then the cable car to check out the ruins on the mountain top. These were pretty cool with some incredible views but felt a little eerie at the same time with the trees covering.
Next up was a day trip to Gocta Falls for an amazing waterfall I had heard about. I headed on the track and it was a great hike and my gosh the views – absolutely incredible, I kept turning corners and seeing a better view of the falls.
Once I reached the falls I sat and chilled, the bottom of the falls was like a cloud. It was the second-highest free falling falls in the world. Stunning.
I pushed on the hike on the way back and had a delicious lunch of soup and veggie saltado before the bus back to Chachapoyas.
It was another night bus and this time to Trujillo but stopping at Chiclayo enroute where I managed to catch the end of the Peru v Australia World Cup Match – Australia lost 0-2.
I jumped in a taxi to Huanchaco and went for a yum burrito wrap and a coffee overlooking the ocean – wow it was good to be on the coast again. I walked along the coast checking out the weird bamboo boats and actually got a little chilly with the sea breeze.
Great views from a church and then I stopped by some markets to pick up some fresh veg for a stirfry. Sat at the hostel and chilled on the couches with a few people watching the world cup – such a great vibe. Hostel dinner that evening and we all shared what we cooked.
I ended that evening with a meditation yoga and then a walk with a friend to pick up some yummy picarones (sweet donuts with honey) – ideal.
Early morning run, brekky and then yoga was how I started by next day which was ideal. A few of us jumped in a bus to Trujillo to Huacas Del Sol y Del Luna which was some interesting ruins and found out that the Moshca people were before the Inca times.
We tried to check the Chan Chan ruins but these were closed by the time we arrived so back on a bus to the hostel for some more World Cup games and then it was time for another overnight bus to Mancora, my last stop in Peru before Ecuador!
Jumped in a mototaxi to Psygon Surf Camp – I was finally in the warm weather again! Watched another World Cup match in the Black Sheep and then to the beach for a massive late lunch. I actually ordered two meals, ceviche and octopus chicherron. YUM!
Had a lovely chilled morning by the pool with a few people then I went for a menu of the day at a nearby café for lunch where I used some decent wifi to plan the next part of my trip.
A few of us from the hostel went down to the beach to watch an incredible sunset and we all had the chats. We stayed up chatting a while before I had to get a move on for a mototaxi to the bus station to once again jump on another overnight bus, this time I was actually leaving Peru, bound for Cuenca in Ecuador!
